About this blog: We visited Uganda in the middle of December, the short rainy season. This is an honest account of the first impressions I had about the country. From wildlife, to people, to the political landscape- Uganda was indeed fascinating. I also write about how I would do thing differently if I am to take the trip one more time in future. For example, not just primates, I would educate myself a bit of the incredible avian species of Uganda and focus more of bird watching experience.
Not many know about this but Uganda is home to a thousand species of birds, half the population of whole East African region.
Read all my blogs on Traveling in Uganda
Entering Uganda via road from Rwanda and Visa on Arrival
I crossed the border from Rwanda to Uganda on a road trip. It was Gatuna border.
Lush green plantations, tea gardens, slow paced country life, plantain farms, trucks filled to the brim with green plantains: that is how Uganda unveiled to me. We slowly traversed the mountainous region.
I spotted the crested cranes on the farmland, an emblem you can’t miss every time you meet an UWA person in uniform.
Crossing the border was not a very pleasant experience. Under a board that reinstates no bribery in practice, the immigration officer had his eyes fixed on the Glenmorangie bottle. He gave a pass for the gin and tonic and wanted to hold on to the single malt until he knew we know about the crossing rules.
Once he knew that we knew about the rules, he started to ransack our luggage and made misogynist remarks. Our guide stepped in, and he took the insults on our behalf. Words like “We would make them cry” was said. It would have left a very bitter taste however a few armed guards came in, stood in vigil and I kind of felt safe with those men by the side.
You must not travel to Uganda with a drone unless you have gained prior permit.
Uganda issues a Visa on Arrival for most of the nations and they attach a sticker visa on your passport. We had done the online application prior and it was a cakewalk.
Also read: Complete Guide to Visiting Uganda for a First Time Visitor
Of ancient communities and ongoing war in neighboring countries
I felt safe traveling in Uganda. Despite knowing about the political turmoil plaguing the region.
But it would be a lie if I don’t say about the
Uganda was divided between various kingdoms, the Central Luganda being the one of King’s Landing. Not much has changed even in the recent democratic spat. The central region is prosperous with larger population, denser housing, visibly financial ease in contrast to the south west mountains. It borders with Congo, ravaged by a long unbecoming warfare.
Many Refugee centers have popped up at the border of Queen Elizabeth National parks as reminders of a grim reality to the tourists.
Rolex- the most loved street food of Uganda
The whole country runs of Rolex energy. A bread roll filled with fried egg is a staple for breakfast or quick bite when you are out there in the road. I was a fan until my body started to reject the flour dough.
The community largely practices ancient way life that marries Christian tradition at the mountains. It becomes progressively Islamic as you approach the Central Uganda. But the local way of life remains inevitably. For example, our guide Hassan said he belongs to the Monkey clan, so they are forbidden to eat the meat of monkeys.
You may ask if it’s normal to eat monkeys or bushmeat? From my viewpoint, locals in Uganda mostly eat vegetarian food, not because they are vegetarian but because they don’t have easy access to meat. Bushmeat fills in that gap. Although it is discouraged with heavy penalty and wildlife heavily guarded by rangers.
Uganda consumes plantain in massive quantity
I did not see any market selling bushmeat though. Sellers offered avocado and tomato if not plantains. Plantains were everywhere. It’s a plantain country.
While Congolese men and women are now crossing the border in search of safety, the real trade deal is when boats carry goats from Uganda to Congo and Congolese send in plantain in return which the locals love to eat! “I have never tasted plantain so sweet in my life!” our guide had said.
I did not see a lot of sweet being sold or served along meals. Fruits would do it. Much like south east Asia.
Uganda and Gorilla Tourism
Gorilla is pretty much beloved in the region. They also said the gorilla comes to the village and pillage through the plantain produce especially during Christmas. They love the moonshine produced from Plantain bark.
The wildlife human conflict was contained largely with the tea plantations that deter the animals from entering villages in search of food.
human habitat conflict is a major reason why mountain gorilla populations has dwindles down a few hundreds in Uganda. Unless UNESCO had stepped in, the gentle giants of Bwindi would have prolly been lost by the end of twentieth century.
But locals have come to appreciate the tourism economy that replaces the agricultural earning when times are difficult.
The rolling hills carpeted with tea plantation are basically a way to deter the animals to come to the villages. Gorillas don’t eat Tea leaves hence they spare those hills. Ironically those hills were once home to the rainforest.
Also read: How to spend 3 days in Fes Morocco
Wildlife in Uganda beyond Gorilla and Primates
Uganda was our 3rd safari is East Africa. While It is no match with Serengeti and Masai mara for the sheer size of landscape, Murchison national Park was striking in its beauty. A Fame drive by the Nile river can be very rewarding, and very value for price as well.
We did game drive by car, boat, at the break of the dawn, at the middle of the night. We saw bunch of hippo, leopard, lions relishing their hunt. I managed to click a frameworthy picture of an Elephant matriarch leading her herd of twenty gentle giants making way for the banks of Nile. Game drives in Uganda was very rewarding.
Off-roading is not allowed at the national parks in Uganda. Please bring a binocular and telephoto zoom lens for better game viewing and photography.
The Colours of Kampala
Kampala is a crazy busy city. I sat in my car thinking if I could really spend an evening here, exploring the streets abuzz with honking bikes. Do I really have it in me? It is diabolical because I was walking with the white rhino at Ziwa Wildlife Sanctuary just a few hours back!
Parts of Kampala is known as the White town, that faces the massive inland sea named lake Victoria. It is where all the tourists stay but I left the city soon and took the bypass towards Entebbe.
Everyone Speaks English in Uganda
You can tell the British had a colony in Uganda, the way they speak English. My Indian English education felt pretty similar to the Ugandan English which had the same spelling, and similar grammar skills.
My colleague from work was actually born in Kampala Uganda. Her family left for Gujarat India during the purge of Edi Ameen but a lot of Indian people had arrived in East Africa with the British. You find the Indian influence with Airtel, Bollywood music and Biryani as well.
Ugandans are Politically aware
It was right before the much anticipated election in Uganda. Nothing went wrong now that I am typing this blog, many Ugandans were eagerly waiting for a change in the decade long reign of Museveni. While the lions were frolicking I had seen guides engaging in discussion regarding the fate of the country. The candidate at the opposition seemed to have less financial resources but he seemed to have win over the heart of locals with his firebrand dissent in music.
Wildlife is a source of pride and joy for Ugandans
The guides and rangers are low key proud of their wealth of the wildlife and are kind towards them. They learn at the tourism school and they are adept at being very kind with the tourists.
Uganda is one of the poorer countries in the region. Tourism is bringing a bit of a relief to the tight grip of economic hardship, if political stability of the country is not threatened. (It is not threatened as I write this thankfully).
Uganda is your only chance at spotting wild Shoebill Stork
While Shoebill Storks frequent the swamps of east African wetland, especially in South Sudan and some parts of Tanzania, your only realistic chance to see them in the wild is in Uganda. It is the storks for whom I stopped a day at Entebbe. A rare and majestic bird, which looks like prehistoric Pterodactyl, The Showbill storks are amazing!
December- the Short Rainy Season
It sure rained everyday early morning at Murchison National Park but it never deterred us from game viewing. At the Bwindi rainforest, rain can come and go on its own whim. You are at a rainforest, duh!
Uganda is a good value tourism destination, where you can either backpack and spend very little thus sticking to a budget style traveling. Or you can spend a little extra and get real good value for your money.
We did not find a lot of tourists flocking to Uganda. It was mostly elderly British or Europeans who wanted to enjoy their year end break. Thus game viewing did not feel overtly crowded.
I had spent countless days planning and chalking out details of the Uganda trip. Our guide/Driver Hassan was helpful too with all the permits and everything. I was skeptical about the safety and security but never did we feel unsafe in Uganda despite our time coinciding with
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